My top favourite embroidery techniques

I like to try new things, so in embroidery I also try to master different techniques, especially really old ones. For me, this is also such a non-standard way to conduct a dialogue with previous generations. 

In various sources, I saw mention of 100-120 different types, or even 200 different stitches. "Grandma's book" provides tutorials for a bit over 80. 

I have currently mastered 28 of them, and it seems such a small part in the sea of diversity of embroidery skills.

I want to share with you some of my favorite stitches and stories about them.


My stitches:

  1. Running stitch

  2. Back stitch

  3. Stem stitch

  4. Wave stitch

  5. Chain stitch

  6. Lazy daisy stitch

  7. Retyaz (Herringbone stitch)

  8. Buttonhole sttch

  9. Cross stitch

  10. Straight cross stitch

  11. Bulgarian double cross stitch

  12. Half-cross

  13. Nabyruvanya (Weaving stitch)

  14. Wrapping stitch

  15. French knot

  16. Shtapivka

  17. Beaded embroidery

  18. Lyshtva

  19. Nyzynka, nyz (simple)

  20. Nyzynka, nyz (with locks)

  21. Podillia brick stitch

  22. Satin stitch

  23. Poltava satin stitch

  24. Zanyzuvannya (weaving stitch)

  25. Nightingale eyes

  26. Cutting out stitch

  27. A single twig

  28. A double twig

Tambour or Chain Stitch

This is one of the basic decorative stitches, which is very often used to create a contour in rushnyks - ritual cloths. To be more precise, one of the types of rushnyks, because there are many styles and regional types of them.

My grandmother introduced me to the tambour or chain stitch. Although she specializes in crocheted products, in her country house near Kropyvnytskyi, the walls were decorated with a kind of panels, embroidered with the chain stitch. On large canvases made of dense fabric, most often woollen, she embroidered fantasy-shaped plant motifs, schemes and patterns for which she composed herself.

When I was still little, I wondered where such a strange name "tambour" stitch came from - either from the "tambour" in the name for train corridor in Ukrainian, or from the "tambourine" - an instrument. Now I have already learned that one of my versions was correct - "tambour" from fr. “drum” gave this stitch its name because, in this technique, the fabric should be tightly stretched in the hoop like a drum. The stitch itself has been known since the time of Ancient Greece.

It's easier to show than to describe, so here's a step-by-step guide

Nyzynka, nyz

It was not the first time that I managed to master the nyzynka stitch and, I have to admit, I really had to make an effort to figure out how to read the schemes and orient in this stitch technique. This stitch suits perfectly if you want to develop your spatial imagination and abstract thinking.

Nizynka is characterized by the fact that it is embroidered from the back side of the product textile. At first it seems that it is very inconvenient, but then as you go with the embroidering you realize that this is the only possible way not to get lost in the pattern, especially if you embroider in the most traditional for it colour - black.

The nyzynka imitates weaving on a loom and is used as its alternative in shirts and other items of clothing, less often - as an assisting stitch on a rushnyk. In addition to the usual one, there is also a lock nyz, in which small "locks" are made so that the thread does not sag on long and large-scale elements. Very comfortable and looks cool.

In general, I think that this is a very practical stitch, because with it you can embroider a large area relatively quickly. When I was practicing the technique, I thought about my great-grandmother..

"So you specially thought out patterns so that you could quickly fill a large area of fabric? Grandma, how did you manage to sew these patterns in low light? My eyes are so dense and dropping out! Maybe you felt differently, because your eyes did not get tired during the day from working at the computer and smartphone.. But still.. And how did you draw the schemes for the nyz? Ornaments seem to be intuitive in their form, and allo no mistakesin the process!

I would really like to ask my great-grandmother about everything…


Nightingale eyes

Behind the very romantic name stands the technique for embroidering lace holes with rounded, diamond-shaped or square edges. This technique is often used to decorate embroidered shirts, rushnyks and other decorative and ceremonial elements.

The nightingale eye is used both in combination with other techniques, for example, lyshtva, various types of netting and satin stitch, and as an independent technique for embroidering patterns that are completely netted with nightingale eyes and are absolutely enchanting.

This technique is embroidered on evenweave soft fabric, with thin threads made of cotton, silk, linen or threads of other plant origin. It is simple enough, but requires some dexterity and patience, and of course practice. We fasten the thread and begin to sew the conventional hole from the center outwards, moving through the holes in a circle and passing through the same hole of the canvas in the center. In this way, we stretch it evenly and form the mentioned nightingale eye. When we make a series of “eyes”, we first embroider half of the "eye" in a row on one side, and then close them with the other half.

An interesting technique can be used when two rows of tightly embroidered nightingale eyes can be cut in the middle between the rows and thus treat the neckline or neck of the shirt.

I really like this technique, because it adds lightness and dynamism to the product. Moreover, when the embroidery thread is well-chosen to the fabric, a nightingale eye looks very neat and cute, like a candy. The feeling when you look at the finished embroidery and your eyes rejoice, how beautiful, harmonious and mesmerizing all the stitches and elements are - is my very subjective, but reliable criterion of success and quality!


Bulgarian (double) cross stitch

This is my great-grandmother Mariyka's favourite stitch. She mostly embroidered pillows in very bright colours with the double cross stitch or as it is called in Ukraine - Bulgarian cross.

As a child, I was even allowed to day nap on my personal pillow made by her in this technique. And, of course, I slept with my face directly on the crosses, which were confidently imprinted as a pattern on my cheek. Observing the print results my mom and grandmother slightly nodded their heads approvingly, as if saying that it should be so, it is a source and seal for nourishing the Ukrainian spirit.

The Bulgarian or double cross is made on a uniform fabric or a larger canvas with cotton or woollen threads. The thread is fixed from the back side. We bring the thread from the lower left corner to the upper right, and so first a normal oblique cross is applied, and then a straight cross is placed on top of it. The sequence of execution of cross stitches can be changed, but the main thing is that it remains unchanged everywhere in the work. As a result, it should look like a snowflake with eight rays.

The double cross is voluminous and textured. Typically the ornaments used most often are geometric. That is why this technique is perfect for decorating decorative items, carpets, panels, pillows, etc.


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